1/10 scale Touring cars: nitro tourers may use .12 or .15
powerplants, and can be very fast indeed—up to 55mph. As with
electric tourers, nitro tourers feature 4WD and realistic body
lines. For on-road use only.
1/8 scale Monster trucks: These giants feature large .21 engines
that make a lot of horsepower. As a result, nitro monsters are fast
(about 40mph) and can plow over or through just about anything! For
use on- or off-road. 1/8 scale Buggies: Like the other 1/8 scale
machines, these vehicles are powered by .21 engines. Buggies can go
just about anywhere, are very tough, and top out close to 60mph. For
use on- or off-road.
1/8 scale On-road cars: The cutting edge of RC performance! Top
speeds of the .21-powered cars approach 80mph, and shifting 2- or
3-speed transmissions are standard. Foam tires provide super grip,
but wear quickly, and these machines are strictly for smooth road
courses—not for the inexperienced.
ELECTRIC VEHICLES have the advantage of clean, quiet
operation. They expel no fumes, and don't produce any significant
noise. They can be operated indoors, cost less than similar
engine-powered models, and are the easiest types of vehicles to get
started in the hobby with. In terms of performance, electric models
can have some disadvantages. Duration is limited by battery
capacity, so you'll have to stop every ten minutes or so to recharge
the battery pack (or install a fresh pack, if you have a few charged
and ready to go). In stock form, electric vehicles are generally not
as fast as similar nitro-powered machines, but it's easy to make an
electric car faster with an aftermarket motor—although such a
modification will also decrease battery life.
ENGINE POWERED MODELS, which are more commonly called
"nitro" kits, because they run on nitro methane-based fuel (more on
that later), have two primary advantages: higher speed and longer
run time. It's easy to make a "pit stop" for more fuel with a
nitro-powered car, and keep driving with only a moment's
interruption. But remember, the on-board battery that powers the
vital radio gear will eventually need a recharge, so don't go too
long without stopping! Nitro cars are generally faster than similar
electrics, and the realism of authentic engine sound and exhaust
smoke add a gee-whiz factor that electrics can't match. But those
can also be disadvantages, if you wish to operate the vehicle in an
area where noise is an issue, or wish to run your car
indoors—nitro-power is for the great outdoors only. Nitro cars also
require more frequent maintenance, are more expensive than similar
electric models, and tend to be a little messy, due to fuel and
exhaust residue.
GETTING STARTED WITH ELECTRIC-POWERED
MODELS
When you've settled on the type of kit you'd like to build, you'll
have to buy the other items you'll need to get your project up and
running. Here's what's required to build, control and run most
electric-powered kits:
ELECTRIC VEHICLES
RADIO SYSTEM When you've built your
dream car, you'll need to control it somehow. Think of the radio as
your link to the R/C vehicle gas pedal! A radio system consists of
three major parts: the transmitter, receiver, and servos.
Transmitter: The unit that you hold in
your hands is called the transmitter, and sends steering and
throttle commands to the vehicle. The transmitter is usually
configured as a pistol grip with a wheel on one side and a trigger
in the traditional position. The trigger controls the throttle, and
a wheel handles the steering.
Receiver: The second part of the
system is called the receiver, and it's mounted inside the R/C
vehicle. The receiver's job is to catch the signal from the
transmitter and translate your commands into action, by sending the
signals to the third part of the radio system: the servos.
Servos: These are also mounted inside
the R/C vehicle, and are plugged into the receiver. Messages from
the receiver tell the servo in which direction it should move and
for how far.
The servos move the steering
and throttle linkages to control speed and direction, as you command
with the transmitter. Electric cars may use a servo and a mechanical
speed control for throttle control, or may substitute the assembly
for an electronic speed control, better known as an ESC.
BATTERY PACK AND BATTERY CHARGER
The battery pack is an electric vehicle's "gas tank"; when it's
empty, you'll have to "re-fill" it by charging it with a battery
charger. Battery packs are available with varying capacities,
measured in milliamp hours. A "2000" pack has can store
2000milliamps of energy, and will allow a vehicle to operate for a
longer duration than a "1500" pack with 1500 milliamps. But just as
a full-size car does not go slower because there is less fuel in the
tank, an electric vehicle does not go slower if the battery has
reduced capacity (or faster if it has increased capacity).
BASIC HAND TOOLS
With few exceptions, electric-powered R/C kits can easily be put
together using the simplest tools. In general, you'll need a slotted
screwdriver and a Phillips screwdriver, a sharp hobby knife and a
pair of needle-nose pliers. Most manufacturers include various
Allen-head wrenches and the lubricants needed to complete their
kits..
GETTING STARTED WITH ENGINE-POWERED MODELS
Nitro-powered models also require a radio
system and basic tools for assembly, and have some additional
specific needs of their own. Remember to ask about the following
when you're in the hobby shop!
RECEIVER BATTERY:
Unlike electric-powered models, which use the on-board battery that
powers the motor to also power the receiver and servos, a
nitro-powered model requires a separate battery to power the
on-board radio gear. Most radio systems include a holder for 4 "AA"
batteries to do the job, but replacing batteries can get expensive.
Most modelers use a rechargeable receiver battery instead, which
requires a charger. Although more expensive up front, a rechargeable
receiver pack and charger will save you money in the long run (even
not-so-long run).
GLOW-PLUG IGNITER
This heats the engine's glow plug (the equivalent of a spark plug is
a full-scale car) so that the fuel in the combustion chamber can
ignite and cause the engine to run. Once running, the heat of
combustion keeps the glow plug hot, and the glow-plug igniter is
removed.
ELECTRIC STARTER
Most entry-level and "play" kits include pull-starters (just like a
lawn mower), and do not require an electric starter. But for those
that don't have a pull-starter, you'll need either a hand-held, 12V
starter or an electric starter box. Both types of starter have
spinning, rubber wheels that, when placed against the engine's
flywheel, cause the engine's crankshaft to rotate and fire the
engine into life.
NITRO FUEL
Although often referred to as "gas powered", nitro models DO NOT run
on gasoline. RC fuel is a mixture of nitro methane and synthetic or
castor oil lubricants. It is flammable and should be treated with
care, but it is not nearly as volatile as gasoline. Never attempt to
use gasoline in a nitro engine!
FUEL BOTTLE
This is simply a small, squeezable bottle with a long neck that
makes it easier to fill your models gas tank. Pouring fuel into a
tiny tank opening from a full gallon jug of fuel invariably leads to
mess and waste!
SPEED CONTROL BASICS
Many electric-powered kits come with mechanical speed controls.
They're simple, switching devices that are worked by a separate
servo to provide a range of forward speeds (usually three), as well
as a reverse function to allow you to back your car out of trouble.
Mechanical speed controls perform well enough, and because they're
inexpensive and included with many entry-level kits, they allow
beginners to get up and running with a smaller investment.
