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Written By: Garry Finlay Provided By:
Radio Control Boat Modeler
Elegance abounds with this
classic pleasure runabout
There is
something very special about a brightly finished mahogany boat
sitting in the sun on calm water, and this 1940 Chris-Craft™; Barrel
Back is certainly no exception. It's one of several gorgeous mahogany
Chris-Craft classics from Dumas. With its graceful lines, this elegant
model represents the golden years of pleasure boating. Building one of
these is like building a little bit of history.
THE KIT
This kit comes with die-cut plywood framework, mahogany exterior
planking, plastic seats, metal deck fittings, a windshield, flags, a
prop, driveline components and decals. All that's needed for RC
operation is a motor, a speed control, a radio and a battery. The parts
are all of good quality except for the mahogany: it's excellent. The
included printed material consists of dozens of photos, three sheets of
plans and a book of step-by-step instructions. A list of construction
tools and materials is provided and includes such details as drill bit
sizes, types of paint and glue. Everything needed to build a masterpiece
is there. This is a kit for average to advanced builders or beginners
who have a good work ethic.
CONSTRUCTION
The keel and frames are anchored to a building board and are assembled
upside-down as a unit that doubles as an assembly fixture. This keeps
everything straight and correctly positioned throughout the initial
construction phase. I popped this off the building board ahead of time
to get better access for gluing the inside joints, then I tack-glued it
back to keep the hull straight when I added the plywood sub-planking.
The birch-ply sub-planks are laid at a 45-degree angle to the
centerline. This takes a little time, but it's good practice for the
method used later to lay down the mahogany. I was careful to then fill
and sand the sub-planking and to compare them with the supplied
templates to be sure the basic shape was right.
I then covered the sub-planking with 3/8- and 1/4-inch-wide strips of
1/16-inch mahogany. I sorted the mahogany to find strips whose grain and
color matched so there wouldn't be any difference in the seams from one
plank to the next. Some strips have a little curve in them, and these
were used in the bow, where they fit better. A little extra time and
effort during this step goes a long way.
The mahogany should be applied one plank at a time using slow, thick
CA, working in 6- to 10-inch increments. I started on the bottom because
it's easier and because mistakes here are covered later with a solid
color. It was a challenge at first, but in no time, I was having fun
admiring the look of that rich, colorful wood as it went on. This was
the most rewarding part of the project (aside from that first run at the
pond!).
Since a cradle isn't supplied, my father (a collector of exotic
woods) built one out of 3/8-inch gnarly walnut. He cut two uprights to
the profiles of frames 2 and 7 and joined them to a 6x16-inch base. I
added aircraft-wing-seating tape to the uprights where they meet the
boat. If you prefer an acrylic display, Dumas offers a nice-looking one
separately.
I removed the hull from the building board to install the interior
structure and the sub-deck. At this point, I had a feel for the
mahogany-planking process, and that's good, because it's most visible at
the top. I test-fit several pieces of mahogany and used the styrene
inlay to simulate the caulking between planks.
Unfortunately, I had trouble getting smooth, gapless curves with the
inlays, so I cheated and left them out. Later, after I had applied the
finishing resin and sanded it, I carefully applied white, 1/16-inch
striping tape over the seams where the caulking strips should have been.
After sanding the seams lightly and adding the final finish, you can't
tell the difference from 2 feet away. Up close, styrene looks more
realistic than tape, and the inlays worked perfectly on a subsequent
Chris-Craft project. If you build one of these kits, work carefully with
the styrene caulking strips, but don't be afraid to use tape if the
inlays don't work for you.
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Left: An 1/8-inch shaft, thrust washer, shear pin and locknut
deliver the power from the motor to the prop. A brass shaft and
blade make a simple, effective rudder. Next time, I'll dress up the
solder job a little more.
Right: Here's a look at the hardware with the hatches off. The
balance is better with the battery in the stern. Everything is easy
to get to except the rudder tiller. |
Continued
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