The recommended radio installation works well. My system is a
2-channel Tower 3000 2TW with one rudder servo. Access to all the
components is good except for the rudder tiller arm. Long fingers and
needle-nose pliers are handy here.
The drive shaft cannot be taken out without removing the rudder—a
major undertaking—and I wanted to lube the shaft while it was in place,
so I decided to add a lube fitting to the stuffing box. I drilled a
3/32-inch hole through the inside of the stuffing tube at floor level.
Then I soldered a washer (to serve as a base) to a 1/2x1/8-inch brass
tube and CA'd this over the hole, being careful not to get glue inside
the tubes. Now I can lube the shaft by running the motor and using a
hobby syringe to apply type-A auto lube to the new fitting. Without
this, the shaft may chatter. Another option would have been to build a
stuffing box of 3/16-inch-o.d. tube with 1-inch-long, 5/32-inch-o.d.
brass bushings CA'd to the ends, and the lube fitting soldered to the
main tube.
FINISHING
Sanding is an integral part of achieving a nice-looking boat. I used a
rubber sanding block with 120- and then 220-grit sand-paper on the bare
wood. My goal was to have a smooth profile when sighting down the deck,
bottom and sides. There is 1/16 inch of mahogany to work with, but I had
to be careful not to go through it while trying to keep the curves
smooth, the lines straight and the corners crisp—especially on the
bottom.
Dumas supplies mahogany stain with instructions on how to use it. I
believe this is to add contrast to some of the planks, as was done on
the original boats. After trying this on a piece of scrap mahogany, I
couldn't tell the difference and chose to stay with the natural color.
The instructions also describe using resin and glass cloth over the
mahogany. As with all Dumas boats, strength is not a problem. I decided
to seal the wood with finishing resin but not to struggle with glass
cloth. After the resin had cured, I sanded everything to a smooth,
400-grit finish.
The fenders and cutwater are made of thin aluminum sheet with
adhesive backing. The soap-and-water method of applying these (as
described in the manual) works well and produces excellent-looking metal
work, if you're careful. There is extra material to practice with before
you attempt to apply it to the boat.
I chose Midwest Formula-U polyurethane spray paint for this project.
I used red under the water line and sanded it lightly with wet 400-grit
sandpaper. I then ran 1/8-inch white striping tape around the model for
the boot topping and sanded it lightly to thin the edges. Next, I
painted the entire model with a good bit of clear Formula-U, applying
light coats every five to 10 minutes. When the paint had fully hardened
(it takes two weeks for a thick layer to dry), I sanded it smooth with
wet 400- and then 600-grit sandpaper. I then worked the surface with
automotive rubbing compound (with the grain) and waxed it. To protect
the finish from glue smears, I applied the wax before I installed the
deck fittings.
DECK FITTINGS
The installation of the deck hardware can make or break an otherwise
great model. Before I glued anything into place, I test-fit each part to
be certain of a few things, e.g., which hand to use to hold the part,
how to point the glue nozzle, how to move the part into position without
smearing the finish, etc. This is one stage of model making that isn't
usually given much thought. If it's done well, it isn't noticeable; but
if there are flaws, it's the first thing that people notice.
I roughened the bottom of the metal deck fittings, and in some
places, I drilled small anchor holes for the CA to grip. Using masking
tape, I cut out the shape of each deck fitting by tracing around the
base of the part with a sharp no. 11 blade. I then positioned the tape,
with the cutout removed, over the fitting's exact location on the deck.
This allowed me to use a small rotary file to carefully grind away the
finish only where needed. With the tape still in place, I added a bit of
glue and then placed the fitting in the opening. As soon as the CA had
set, I peeled off the tape. This left the correctly located fitting and
a good finish on the wood.
Last, I waxed the boat one more time, added the seats, flag and
steering wheel, and then I set this baby on the coffee table where
everyone could see it.
