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Here are the
supplies we gather before we begin: Three Team Losi CK Mini
T bodies, Parma FasMask, Tamiya masking tape, Pactra spray
paint, dish soap, Dynamite Lexan scissors, and a Sportwerks
reamer. |
When it comes to RC
related tasks, painting a body can be one of the most intimidating
tasks for a modeler. There are so many talented people out there who
create masterpieces that painting your first body can be rather
daunting. I have seen many of these people at racetracks and clubs
around the country running what I call the “One-Color Wonders .”
They simply went to the hobby shop shelf for a can of paint, masked
the windows, and blasted the body with a single color. If this
describes you, then there’s great news on the horizon. I spent some
time recently talking with one of the most experienced painters
today, Team Losi’s Gary Kyes, about some basic and easy painting
techniques that just about anyone can use to make a statement with
their paint.
Body
Preparation:
If you’re new to
the hobby, you might not realize that Lexan RC bodies are actually
painted from the inside. The shine and sheen that you see reflecting
off a body doesn’t come from the paint, but rather from the
reflective nature of the Lexan itself. I’ve seen many bodies at the
track or at club even ts with sections of paint that have been
chipped away, leaving large gaping clear areas on the body. This
happens because the body was not properly prepared before the layers
of paint were applied. There is a mold release agent that is
sometimes sprayed on the inside of the body to allow it to come off
the mold without sticking. While this agent makes it easy to pull
the body off the mold, it also prevents the paint from sticking to
the inside of the body. You will need to thoroughly wash and rinse
out the body with warm water mixed with liquid dish washing
detergent to remove any left over residue that might still be on the
body. It’s a simple thing, but one of the most commonly overlooked.
Once the body has been washed and rinsed out, dry it with a
lint-free cloth or towel. Then you are ready to mask off the body for paint.
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Use warm,
soapy water to wash out a body before you begin painting,
this will wash off any residue or dust that may be inside.
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Gary Kyes:
Getting a body washed, rinsed, and dried is really an important
step that some people overlook or don’t pay nearly enough
attention to. If you don’t do a thorough job of drying the body
you may run into problems with the paint not adhering properly.
I have often used compressed air to blow out the remaining water
from all the nooks and crannies that you might otherwise miss.
You can also try shaking the body out or swinging it in an
effort to get the last little drops out. Do not use paper towels
when drying off the body . A regular clean dishtowel works well.
Paper towels leave fuzz or lint behind, plus they break apart
when wet. And here’s one final tip when cleaning off the body.
It ’s not only important to wipe down the inside of the body to
dry it, but don’t forget to wipe off the outside of the body as
well, to neutralize any static charge that can attract overspray
and cause “ghosts” or streaks in your paint.
Masking
and Planning:
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Pre-Cut window
masks make life so much easier. Take your time when applying
the masks, lining up the mask edges with the etching inside
the body. |
To make painting
the body even easier, every Team Losi body includes pre-cut window
masks. But if you want to create something other than a basic paint
scheme, you will need to use either masking tape or some sort of
liquid masking product. Many people like to use masking tape as it
is relatively inexpensive, it can be applied to the inside of the
body quickly, and you can immediately start painting once the
masking tape is in place. There are many painters who personally
prefer liquid masking products, such as Parma’s Faskolor Liquid Mask
(PAR40282: 8oz;
PAR40283: 16oz) for several reasons. With liquid
mask, you have the ability to work with more complicated designs if
you prefer, the odds of having a bleeding problem can be reduced,
and, for me at least, it’s easier to plan out the design. The down side of liquid mask is that you will need to wait, usually
overnight, for the mask to dry on the body. You can speed up the
drying process with the aid of a hair dryer.
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Parma ’s
Liquid Mask is one of my personal favorites. All you need to
do is pour the liquid mask inside the body, spread it
around, and let it dry overnight. |
Many people go out
and wow everyone with their paint skills, only to be disappointed
when the finished product doesn’t turn out as they envisioned. I
know I am not a great painter; I don’t have the patience to be one.
But I know I can do a decent job if I put my mind to it and paint
within my limits. The key is to use many of the tools that are
available to help make the job easier. One of the best purchases
I’ve made is a 6” ruler that I use as a straightedge inside of a
body. This makes it easy for someone like me who can’t draw a
straight line to cut one in the liquid mask. Some people use
adhesive shapes (like circles, squares, or even stars to name a few)
as pre-cut masks to bring out a new dimension in their paint scheme.
Gary Kyes: When
you look at the paint on a car, whether full -scale or RC, you will
notice that the preparation that went into the paint job constitutes
80% of the work that went into the final results. If you don’t have
things planned out well before you start, you may be doomed to a
less than satisfactory result. I find masking tape to be easier to
work with, but you need to use a good quality tape or you could have
bleed problems. I like using an automotive quality masking tape
(made by 3M) for several reasons. After you are done with an area
and go to remove the masking tape, it doesn’t leave a gooey, sticky
residue that could cause a blotching problem. It’s also easier to
make a curve or bend without it tearing or kinking. I’m not a huge
fan of the vinyl tape available from some companies; I’ve noticed
that if you run vinyl tape around a curved surface, walk away, and
return five minutes late r, the tape will have lifted up from the
curved area. This can lead directly to potential bleeding problems.
If you do wish to use vinyl tape, be very careful not to stretch it
or problems will occur. Tamiya sells a yellow paper tape in four
sizes from 6 to 40mm that works very well, especially for back
taping. Because it is a thinner tape, it is easier to cut through
and doesn’t drag on the knife blade as much. Speaking of which, you
need to always use a fresh, sharp blade anytime you try to cut into
masking material. A dull blade can catch and tear the masking
material, pulling it away from the surface you want to mask off.
Applying
the Paint:
Whether you use
spray cans or an airbrush, there are basics that apply to both. I’ll
discuss spray cans first, since they are the easiest to use and the
most common as well. Instead of simply shaking the can to help
prepare the paint, you may want to run the can under the faucet with
warm water flowing over it. The paint tends to flow better out of
spray cans when the ambient temperature is over 70 degrees, and the
additional heat input also helps to pressurize the can a little
more. Be very careful here, as you don’t need to overly heat up the
can, all you are trying to do is get the can temperature above 70
degrees. By keeping the water temperature at a reasonable setting,
you also ensure that you cannot be burned by overly hot water.
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We used
Pactra
spray paint on all of the bodies used here, but you can also
use an airbrush as well. As you spray, use thin coats to
prevent drips and runs. Also remember to start with the
darkest color first. |
While this same
trick doesn’t work with an airbrush, there are steps you can take
before you start spraying that will make the job much easier. Have
all your tips ready to go, making sure they are all clean and rinsed
from the last time you used them. Nothing ruins your day faster than
to spray what you think is white and have it come out pink because
you didn’t rinse the tip out after the last time you used it to
spray red. Don’t forget about the body of your airbrush, too, as old
paint can collect in there, fouling up the action of the airbrush
and affecting the flow of paint. When you begin to spray, hold the
can about 8 –12 inches away from the area where you are going to
paint (6 –8 for airbrushes), moving side-to-side using a smooth,
flowing motion. Don’t glob the paint on in one thick coat, as using
more, thinner coats will generally result in a better looking
finished product.
Gary
Kyes: Before you even think about pain ting, you need to be in a
well-ventilated room so that the paint fumes don’t overcome you. If
the body doesn’t have overspray film on the outside of it, take a
plastic bag, such as the one the body came in, and tape it around
the body. This will keep the paint on the inside of the body, where
you want it. If you are inexperienced at painting, a piece of
cardboard could be your new best friend. Use the cardboard as a test
surface to see how fast or slow the paint will flow out of the can
or airbrush. Additionally, use the cardboard to see how quickly you
need to move side-to-side for the best and most even paint coverage.
When you start to spray, depress the nozzle before you get to the
part of the cardboard (or body) to start the spray, and don’t
release it until after you have panned past the area you wish to
cover. This technique prevents you from having an area of the body
that has a lighter color than the rest of the area. As you spray,
and this is extremely important, hold the can or airbrush perfectly
perpendicular to the surface you are spraying. This ensures that the
color distribution will be even and your lines will be as smooth as
possible. Don’t go gonzo when applying the paint. Not only are
multiple, thinner/lighter coats better for color consistency, but
the solvent/thinner in the paint is designed to actually eat into
the body’s plastic and if you put to o much on at one time it can
actually cause damage, making it very brittle. When you are spraying
with a water-based paint, such as Parma Faskolor, you will
definitely want to use a hair dryer to help the paint dry between
coats. When you use the hair dryer, hold the body so that any paint
that might drip will do so away from your masked area. The reason
for this is to again prevent bleeding.
Basic
Effects:
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When using a
marble technique, blot the inside of the body wh ile the
paint is still wet with a paper towel or other lint-free
cloth. Remember to blot the paint; don’t smear. I used three
coats of red before I backed it with white. |
Like I said, I am
an average painter. I’ve painted up more than a few “One-Color
Wonders” myself, but I will probably never paint a basic one-color
body again since I’ve learned the sponge technique. A friend of mine
pain t ed a body for me about two years ago, with the coolest effect
in the blue sections of the paint —a white swirl pattern in the blue
parts of the body. When I asked him how he had accomplished such a
difficult -looking effect, he told me that it was quite easy and
anyone could do it. Once he had sprayed down the first coat of the
primary color (in this case blue), he simply blotted the still -wet
paint with the bag that the body had come in. While he used the
clear bag the body came in, you can use a sponge, paper towels, or
even a paper bag to blot the body with. The key is to dab at the
sections of the body ; don’t try to swirl the colors around by
twisting your blotter side to side. This dabbing remove s random
sections of the paint that ha ve just been sprayed down, and this
process is repeated with each subsequent coat of paint. There will
be sections of paint that will not be removed with any of the
smudges, and those sections of the body will appear darker than some
other sections. Once you have sprayed your final coat of paint and
have finished blotting or sponging the body, back it up with white
paint. This is what makes this effect work. The white will fill in
any gaps in coverage as well as making the base color snap to life.
All I can say is that once you see this done, you will never run a
regular single-color paint scheme again.
Gary Kyes: One
of my favorite yet easy techniques I use is called the Fade. You can
use just two colors to do this, but I’ve used three and four colors
as well. The one big thing to remember with Fades is that you need
to use complementary colors, such as Red with Yellow and Orange. You
can also use half-tones or different tones of the same color. On one
of my favorite bodies, I used a Candy Blue and a solid Medium Blue
and I was very impressed with the result. Once you have chosen the
colors you are going to use, you should spray the darker color
first, gradually going to lighter and lighter colors. In the event
that you have to spray a lighter color first, back it with white,
and if you have to paint white first, you should back it with
silver. Follow this same pattern when working on smaller detail
areas, such as stripes, as well. In all cases, make sure you allow
each color to dry completely before applying another over it.
For the fade,
you will need to decide if you want to fade the colors from front to
rear or top to bottom. You want to start by spraying the first color
at your normal speed for regular coverage but as you get to the area
where the next color is going to overlap you need to move at about
twice the speed so the paint is very thin and almost translucent.
Before you actually spray the paint on the body, test your idea out
on a piece of paper towel. This will let you practice how far and
fast you should go with your beginning color before you start fading
it out and leading into the secondary color. When you start to spray
your second color, you will start at the point where you left the
previous color thin and use the same technique as for the first .
Detail
with Decals:
Each body has its
own personality molded into it before you even take it out of the
bag. Fans of almost any make full - sized car can replicate that
same look and feeling with their R/C vehicles too. I happen to love
the look of the full-size CK trucks, so I naturally fitted my
personal Mini-T. But if you don’t actually use the included
headlight and grill e decals, the body just looks like any old
truck. Take a couple of extra minutes and apply the included detail
decals, such as the grill e and headlights, the taillights, and any
other detail graphics to add that extra touch of personality to your
new shell. The reward will be well worth the effort. One little
piece of advice that will save you aggravation later, and don’t ask
how I know about this (ok, I did it myself once) : Before you apply
any decals, make sure you peel the over spray film off the outside
of the body. No matter how careful you are, how much time you spend,
you will occasionally have a section of mask that may bleed through.
While to some this may mean the end of a great body, this is where
the truly creative come to life. Once a color has bled through there
isn’t much you can do to fix the problem, but you can cover up a
mistake with creative decal placement. Just running a blank body
without any decals can look rather blah ; the use of decals and
their placement can not only be the final touch to a great -looking
body, but careful decal placement can also hide minor goofs and
errors in the paint. Just remember that more is not always better,
as a body with a million different decals can look overly busy and
cluttered.
Gary Kyes:
Stickering a body can be tricky, but if you take your time and are
patient, you will be rewarded in the end. I like to peel the sticker
off of the backing and then replace it so that it is half on and
half off the backing. This will let you position it and make sure
everything is straight before you put the sticker on for good. By
leaving the backing on, you can remove, relocate, or otherwise
change the placement without ruining the decal.
Mounting
the Body:
This can be the
make or break step in getting your new body ready, and yet this is
the most common step people trip up on. All Team Losi bodies have
mold lines in them as a guideline for cutting the front wheel wells
out, along with the sides. Additionally, replacement bodies such as
those for the Mini-T, LST, BK2, or MF2 also have molded -in dimples
to indicate where the body postholes should be drilled. This is
where the first mistake is often made, as I have seen countless
bodies with jagged, oversized, or just otherwise ugly mounting
holes. Put the hobby knife down when it comes to the body mount
holes, and opt for a quality reamer. Remove just a little material
at a time, test-fitting the body as you go along. The other common
mistake happens when it’s time to open up the wheel wells. Again,
I’ve seen people hacking at the trim lines with a hobby knife, a
straight scissors, or other foreign object. If you have a steady
hand, you can use a hobby knife to score the wheel well enough so
you can simply bend it out. However, I have found that people with
that steady of a hand are few and far between. Using an actual
circle cutter will yield perfectly rounded and smooth wheel wells
every time and won’t create jagged edges like using Lexan scissors
could possibly do.
Gary Kyes:
Instead of struggling to mount a painted body, mark the body mount
holes while the body is still clear. That will make the job much
easier. To get perfectly round wheel well holes, the Olfa Compass
Cutter (OLF991) will do the trick each and every time. Simply mark
the centerline of the axle (again this is easiest to do before you
paint), fix the blade portion on the scribed wheel well marks, and
rotate the compass to score the wheel well. Since the rear wheel
wells aren’t scribed, use a tire as a template and mark where the
rear wheel wells should be with a Sharpie marker.
Painting a body can
be a challenging adventure if you have never done so before, but it
is not as daunting as it might first appear. Like I said, you need
to know your limitations and not get in over your head, but as you
gain experience and confidence, definitely feel free to experiment
with different things. I will be the first to admit that some of my
coolest paint jobs have evolved out of something that I had first
made a mistake on.
«RC
Car Bodies
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